Learn about Diamonds and Diamond Rings

Q. What is the difference between an engagement ring and a wedding band?

A. The engagement ring is traditionally given by a man to a women to symbolize the intent for marriage. It is usually presented when the man proposes to the woman and is worn throughout the engagement. Traditionally the engagement ring has a single diamond in it. This is called the diamond solitaire. It is not uncommon to see people use a variety of rings as symbols of their engagement.

Q. Why a diamond?

A. The diamond being the hardest substance on earth was valued as early as the 15th century. The first diamond engagement ring was given in 1477 by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy. The wedding took place 24 hours later. In these times, diamonds were uncut, so they were valued as a symbol of strength and protection, not beauty. This is where the tradition began.

Q. Why is the wedding ring worn on the 4th finger?

A. There are two speculated reasons. The rings were actually worn on the thumb in the 17th century, but the 4th finger was used during the ceremony. Some feel that during a Christian wedding, the priest arrives at the 4th finger after touching three fingers on the left hand "In the Name of the Father...Son...and Holy Ghost...". Others believe the Egyptian myth that the ring finger follows the "vena amoris" or vein of love...which supposedly runs directly to the heart.

Q. How do I intelligently shop for diamonds?

A. Arm yourself with knowledge. Most stones are graded on a set of ratings set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Unfortunately, these gradings are often misrepresented by the actual sellers of the diamonds. Essentially, they can give the stones virtually any grading they want, and if the consumer is not educated s/he will not know the difference. Learn the grading scales and look at MANY stones. It is A MUST to find a jeweler that adheres to the GIA standards.

Q. Which is the most important C?

A. Really the fifth C which has gone unmentioned and that is COST! Set a budget and stick with it.

Q. What has the greatest effect on price?

A. In terms of value, they would rank:
     1. Color
    2. Clarity
    3. Cut/Proportion
    4. Carat weight

Q. What has the greatest effect on beauty?

A. Similarly:
     1. Cut/Proportion
    2. Color
    3. Clarity
    4. Carat weight

The Importance of Cut
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Q. Since they rarely grade cut, it must not be important, right?

A. Wrong. Cut is the single most important factor in the appearance of the stone. Poorly cut stones will appear dull or have dark spots. Well cut stones will be brilliant and fiery if the stone quality is reasonable. It is important to be able to judge cut.

Q. What is an ideal cut stone?

A. There are 3 accepted sets of proportions which are considered ideal cut stones. They are (all proportions are given as a proportion of the girdle diameter):

     1. The Tolkowsky or Standard American Ideal Cut:
        Table Width: 53%
        Crown height: 16.2%
        Overall height: 59.3%

    2. The Eppler or European Cut:
        Table Width: 56%
        Crown height: 14.4%
        Overall height: 57.7%

    3. The Scan D.N.
        Table Width: 57.5%
        Crown height: 14.6%
        Overall height: 57.7%

Q. Why aren't all stones cut to these specifications?

A. Not all can be. Less that 1% of all stones are considered ideal. The main motivating factor behind this is money however. Ideal cut stones result in a greater amount of waste. For this reason, all but the finest cutters rarely perform these cuts to cut down on waste. There are only (last I knew) 3 cutters in the US that perform the Tolkowsky cut.

Inclusions: What's OK, What's Not
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Q. I know that most rings have inclusions, but what is ok and what isn't?

A. Avoid the following flaws:
      -Large milky or cloudy areas
      -Big cracks...they threaten the durability. These include big feathers(big meaning 1/3 the diameter of the stone or more)
      -Big chips...they'll get bigger
      -Big white, black or colored lines. They reduce brilliance and threaten durability.

Section 4: How to not get ripped off
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Q. How do I know that I'm getting real diamonds?

A. There are several ways to tell. You can try to scratch it. Diamonds are the hardest material on the planet, so if it is real, it won't scratch. If it is out of the setting, place it table down on newsprint and see if you can read through it. If you can, it is fake. There are other tests that you can ask the jeweler to perform in your presence
to verify its authenticity.

Q. I'm getting my diamond inspected/remounted/etc. How can I be sure that they don't switch the stone on me?

A. Know where the inclusions are on your stone. You can have it certified by the GIA for a fee. They will document the exact location of all identifying inclusions along with color and carat. If you bought a Lazare diamond, know what the serial is.

Most of the information in this FAQ can be found in the two references listed below along with better illustrations and pictures. I would strongly recommend the purchase of one or both of these to any prospective diamond buyers.

1. Engagement and Wedding Rings
The Definitive Buying Guide for People in Love
Matlins, Bonanno and Crystal
Gemstone Press 1990. ISBN 0-943763-05-3
269pp $14.95

2. The Diamond Ring Buying Guide
How to Avoid Rip-offs 3rd ed.
Newman International Jewelry Publications 1992. ISBN 0-929972-18-9 151pp $12.95

Both are excellent guides. I don't think I can recommend one over the other. The first includes sections on colored gemstones as well.